Beauty Of Jewelry

Jewelry from Your Favorite Idol

2009-01-10T23:22:00.000-08:00

December 10, 2008

Paula Abdul may send American Idol contestants home without a record deal, but she doesn't let them go home empty-handed. The former pop star has been designing jewelry since her debut on the show in 2002, and she graciously likes to give her baubles to departing wannabes as glittering parting gifts.

"I wanted something the kids could touch and feel to remind themselves that their talent got them here," Abdul told reporters.

And now the former pop star's jewelry creations are being offered to all of her fans as part of the new HSN Forever Your Girl line, which makes its debut Saturday. The collection also includes handbags and other accessories, with a price range of $29 to $200.

Among her newest pieces are dangling heirloom earrings and a beaded leather cuff bracelet that will go to the female participants in the new season. She inscribed it with the words "reach for the stars."

Abdul says she's looking forward to welcoming her old friend and new judge Kara DioGuardi when the top-rated Fox show returns Jan. 13. "Hopefully she'll give Simon hell," Abdul says.

The singer-dancer-choreographer's other plans for 2009 include her first album of new material in over a decade and a new reality TV special for MTV called "Rah! Paula Abdul's Cheerleading Bowl."

Star jewelry makes anyone a singing sensation, and Jewelry.com has a glittering array for the Idol contestant in all of us. Who cares if your stage is the living room, your band is the karaoke machine and your audience is the dog?

Bring out the star power this holiday season!

Paris Bandits Seize Millions from Harry Winston

2009-01-10T23:21:00.000-08:00

December 5, 2008

Diamonds and gems valued at $108 million were seized yesterday in a shocking robbery of the Parisian branch of high-end jeweler, Harry Winston. The bandits were said to know the names of several employees and the location of secret jewelry storage units.

According to Bloomberg news, four armed men entered the store on Avenue Montaigne near the Champs-Elysees shortly before their closing time. They took nearly everything on display and forced staff to hand off diamonds stashed away in the back. No one was injured and no shots were fired.

This heist comes on the heels of a similar raid on the very same branch over a year ago, where thieves escaped with more than $25 million in glittering gems. Coincidence? Or is this the same outfit back for another grab?

"We are clearly dealing with well-organized, ruthless criminals," Winston spokeswoman, Isabelle Montagne, said yesterday.

Parisian TV crews and curious passersby littered the road outside the store and marveled at the millions lost.

"How on earth are they going to fence all that," asked Richard Conacher, a 39-year-old pub worker from Melbourne.

The largest-ever jewelry heist took place in February 2003, when thieves took diamonds valued at 100 million euros from vaults at Antwerp's diamond exchange, according to Agence France- Presse.

Real Housewives of Atlanta Take a Bow

2009-01-09T23:20:00.000-08:00

November 19, 2008

It’s finally over. The Real Housewives of Atlanta took Bravo by storm this fall, and last night the ladies of leisure put an end to the bickering, blubbering and backstabbing in the season’s finale.

For those of you who have managed to avoid the Housewives phenomenon, the Bravo series follows a group of wealthy wives in various ‘gated communities’ throughout this fine land of ours. We’ve been to sunny Orange County, sophisticated New York and now the wilds of Atlanta.

The southern belles this season filled their days planning parties, hiring assistants, and dropping cash like it grows on trees. And when the ladies didn’t have anything better to do? One housewife started a clothing line (even though she knows nothing about design – or clothes) and another attempted to jumpstart a fledgling country-singing career (even though she is completely and tragically tone deaf).

It’s riveting television.

One housewife in particular, Lisa Wu Hartwell, does seem to have her act together. The busy mother of three is a successful real estate agent, has a children’s clothing line, Hart 2 Hart Baby, and a high-end jewelry line, Wu Girls. Not too shabby.

The Wu Girl look features colored gemstones in chunky designs with both 14 and 18 karat gold. Retailing from $1200 on up, the pretty pieces can set you back a few if you don’t have a sugar daddy around to pitch in.

If you want to channel your inner Housewife without breaking the bank, Jewelry.com has the same looks here for less:

Rings

Necklace

Bangle

And if you thought you could get a reprieve from gawking at how the ‘other half’ lives, think again. The Housewives of Atlanta reunion special airs next week (with a surprise showdown between Lisa Wu and another housewife), and the Orange County ladies return on November 25th. Just in time for the holidays.

Rolling Stone Names Top 100 Singers

2009-01-09T23:17:00.000-08:00

Sure to send music fans in a frenzy, Rolling Stone has announced their list of the top 100 singers of all time. And in a stroke of genius, the magazine enlisted the help of today’s top artists to write about and rank their favorite songbirds. Mary J. Blige covers #1 entry, Aretha Franklin, Billy Joel sings the praises of Ray Charles (#2) and Lenny Kravitz gushes about the Mick Jagger swagger (#16), to name a few.

Of course where there is a list, there is controversy. How can Christina Aguilera make the cut but not Beyonce? Bob Dylan is number 7? And how on earth can the iconic jazz chanteuse, Nina Simone, get a nod but not Ella Fitzgerald, Edith Piaf or Billie Holiday? And perhaps their biggest oversight? Barry Manilow is nowhere to be found!

But despite your personal singing persuasions, Jewelry.com wants to add a little bling to your sing by creating a special jewelry selection to compliment some of the ladies on the list.

Add a little sparkle to your inner songbird!

Feelin’ a little bit country? Bonnie Raitt (#50) and the always-perky Dolly Parton (#73) would tip their cowboy hats to this little diamond and gold gem.

Aretha Franklin’s gold hoop earrings were an iconic presence during her early days. Pay ‘respect’ to the list’s top dog with a glittering pair of your own.

When you see butterfly jewelry, who else do you think of but the list’s leading lady, Mariah Carey (#79)?

Tina Turner’s big wheels keep on turning with a spot at #17 on the list. Big hair and big earrings are the only way to pay homage to this icon.

Christina Aguilera (#58) has come a long way from Disney’s Mickey Mouse Club. Get a cocktail ring similar to the glamorous gem she wears here for a fraction of the price.

Whether you are a die-hard Whitney Houston fan or a Janis Joplin rock-n-roller, this classic diamond note pendant will tell the world you write the songs that make the whole world sing.

For a complete look at Rolling Stone’s 100 Greatest Singers of All Time, click here!

$1.27 Million Diamond Jeans

2009-01-07T23:13:00.000-08:00

Jewelry.com, 04/30/2008

Recession? What recession? Rumors abound that the economy is heading down, down, down and consumer confidence is danger of flat-lining. Obviously the analysts and the doomsday sayers have not been thorough in their research. I mean, if people are buying jeans for over $1.2 million, things can’t be that bad – can they?

During London Fashion Week, Secret Circus Clothing Company unveiled a $1.27 million pair of jeans and, by the close of the last show, announced the first pair of diamond-encrusted jeans had been sold.

The jeans are hand-made (obviously) and the back-pocket is embellished with 15 diamonds that include some rather large rocks: a 4.63 marquise diamond, 2 round brilliant six-carater diamonds, one 5.09 carat princess cut gem and a pear-cut diamond weighing in at 5.37 carats. Not forgetting of course 10 single carat diamonds.

Irma Matulionyte modeled them at the label’s launch at London Fashion Week in February, and since then, the brand has stirred up quite a buzz. The owner of the million-buck denims didn’t want to be named, but the company did state the jeans will fit a 27 inch waist. Practicality is, of course, another important consideration when buying jeans with diamonds. Before shoving them in the wash, let’s hope the laundry remembers to use the clasp that will remove the diamonds.

jewelry news

2009-01-05T22:55:00.000-08:00

JEWELRY NEWS

Is It Or Isn’t It?
The World’s Largest Diamond

Unconfirmed reports are in from South Africa regarding the discovery of what may be the world’s largest diamond.

According to Brett Jolly, a shareholder in the small South African mining company that found the diamond, the stone is around 7,000 carats, twice the size of the world’s largest diamond - the Cullinan Diamond.

In 2000 police foiled a plan to steal the 203-ct. flawless pear-shaped Millennium Star diamond and 11 other rare blue diamonds, including the 27.64-ct. blue Heart of Eternity diamond from London’s Millennium Diamond. In a scene right out of the James Bond movie "The World is Not Enough," the robbers planned to make their getaway via a speedboat on the nearby Thames River. But police, acting on a tip given several weeks ago, had prepared for the theft and had officers stationed around the Millennium Dome dressed as members of the cleaning staff carrying weapons in their refuse bags. Some 100 officers lay in wait as a gang attempted to use a mechanical digger to steal the gems valued at £350 million. The robbers only managed to damage the glass display case, however, the police, had swapped the jewels for worthless copies

The Cullinan, the centerpiece of the British crown jewels, was discovered near Pretoria in 1905 and weighs about 3,000 carats. The unpolished Cullinan, also known as the Star of Africa, was 3,107 carats when De Beers found it in 1905. The cut stone now resides in the Tower of London, set in the sceptre of King Edward VII.

But industry experts are skeptical about the unconfirmed claim. In a photograph emailed to the BBC, the 'stone' appears to be about the size of a coconut, and has a greenish tinge.

But a spokesman for De Beers, the world's biggest diamond mining company, said the north-west province was not known for producing gems and greenish stones were even rarer.

Ernie Blom, chairman of the South African Diamond Council and president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, said from what he could see in the photograph the gem did have the characteristics of a diamond in terms of shape and color.

'It would be an extremely rare find. It would almost be like finding another Rembrandt,' he said. He said the stone would have to be certified by an expert.

Scotland Yard Foils Heist of 203 Carat Diamond

2009-01-03T17:13:00.000-08:00

In commemoration of the spectacular "would-be" diamond heist on London's Millennium Dome, the Diamond Trade Commission (DTC) this week presented the capital's police department with a replica of the stunning 'Millennium Star'.

The Millennium Star, one of the finest diamonds in the world, was on display as part of the De Beers collection of diamonds at the Millennium Dome when it became the target of a gang of thieves. The Star, widely regarded as the purest and most beautiful of diamonds in the world was the chief attraction of the collection, and the centerpiece of the Dome's opening night when a laser was shone through it, throwing shafts of light around the entire Dome. It is a D-color, internally and externally flawless pear-shaped stone of 203.04 carats.

The diamonds were housed in the Dome's high-security Diamond Experience when a gang of five wannabe diamond thieves attempted to bulldoze their way into the Dome. The set of 12 diamonds in the collection were insured to the value of 150M Pounds.

The thieves bulldozed their way into the Thames-side tourist attraction shortly after the Dome opened that morning and attempted to gain access to the armored-glass display case using sledgehammers and a nail gun. Other gang members threw smoke grenades towards tourists and staff, while another stayed outside in the 'dozer. A boat, skippered by the final member of the gang was waiting to take them across the Thames to a getaway van parked by a creek on the other side.

Unfortunately for them, authorities had already received word of the planned heist and were lying in wait for the thieves. The Star itself and the collection of 11 rare blue diamonds surrounding it had already been substituted with replicas an added security measure.

The real Millennium Star was crafted from one of the biggest rough diamonds ever mined. The 777-carat stone was discovered in the Democratic Republic of Congo in 1990 and was later fashioned into the 203-carat gem that was on display in the Millennium Dome.

The replica of the famed diamond awarded to the police for their ingenuity in capturing the bandits, will be permanently on display in New Scotland Yard's Crime Museum. "The replica Millennium Star will act as a lasting reminder of one of our most successful operations," Police Commissioner Sir John Stevens said at the presentation ceremony last Thursday.

FYI:

The Guinness Book of Records says the world's biggest jewelry robbery took place in August 1994, when three thieves burst into the most famous Carlton Hotel in Cannes. Firing machine guns, they robbed the Carlton's jewelry store just as it was being closed. They made off with £30m in jewels. It was later discovered that the rounds they had been firing were in fact blanks. If the Millennium Dome diamond robbery had been a success and the Millennium Star taken, it would have dwarfed this theft.

Although priceless, the crown jewels at the Tower of London have only once attracted the efforts of thieves. In 1671, one Colonel Blood gained entry to the Tower, dressed in the robes of a priest. Along with two accomplices, he overpowered the guards and exited with the crown, orb and sceptre. The plan fell apart with the getaway. The Colonel only made it to the East Gate of the Tower. Fortunately for him, in days not renowned for the lenient treatment of criminals, Blood was pardoned by Charles II.

In Search Of Sunken Treasure

2009-01-03T17:11:00.001-08:00

Who among us hasn't dreamed at one time of finding sunken treasure? Who hasn't thrilled to the prospect of recovering antique gold and silver coins, jewel-encrusted goblets and other priceless artifacts that may have been lost on the ocean floor for hundreds of years?

Treasure hunting is one activity that promises mystery, adventure, romance, danger and exotic locales. It has also been the basis of many a novel, film, and childhood fantasy. Jewelry lovers especially seem to be enthralled by undersea treasure, judging from the brisk sales of authentic coins and jewelry salvaged from actual shipwrecks, as well as the healthy demand for replica coins and coin jewelry pieces. Case in point: thanks to the tremendous buzz surrounding the movie blockbuster Titanic, crystal replicas of the stunning "Heart of the Ocean" blue diamond necklace featured in the film were hot items.

Here are some famous shipwrecks that yielded vast fortunes in coins, jewels and other treasures:

Atocha -- This Spanish galleon (full name: Nuestra Senora de Atocha -- Our lady of Atocha) was lost during a hurricane in the Florida Keys in 1622. The ship was laden with 47 troy tons of treasure. The wreck site was discovered by noted salvager Mel Fisher in 1985. Since its discovery, the site has yielded an estimated $500 million in treasure. It has been called the richest sunken treasure ship ever found. Many collectible reproductions of coins and jewelry found from the Atocha -- including those struck from actual Atocha silver -- are available to collectors.

Conception -- In 1641, the Nuestra Senora de la Pur Y Limpia Conception (Our lady of the Immaculate Conception), a large Spanish treasure galleon laden with Mexican gold and silver, sunk off the coast of Puerto Rico after being damaged by a severe storm. An English salvage crew recovered about 60,000 pounds of silver from the wreckage site in 1687, but left much of the treasure on the sea floor. After 10 years of searching, Burt D. Webber Jr. rediscovered the wreck in 1978 and found a huge hoard of coins, marking the Conception as one of the greatest finds in history.

Fleet of 1715 -- In 1715, a hurricane off the east coast of Florida sunk 11 of 12 Spanish treasure ships. The vessels were laden with millions of gold and silver coins, ingots, jewelry and other treasures. Salvager Kip Wagner found several of the wrecks in the 1960s and ultimately recovered a priceless treasure trove of jewels, silverware and gold and silver ingots -- as well as more than 10,000 gold coins and more than 100,000 silver coins.

Whydah -- In 1717, this pirate ship under the command of Captain "Black Sam" Bellamy ran aground in a violent storm and was lost in the shifting sands of Marconi Beach on Cape Cod. The ship had been carrying priceless booty taken from more than 50 ships. In 1984, a team led by underwater explorer Barry Clifford located this fabled wreck and has since recovered thousands of gold and silver Spanish coins called "pieces of eight" and numerous other priceless artifacts.

Capitana -- This Spanish galleon (full name: El Capitana el Rubi Segundo) was part of a treasure fleet that sunk along the Florida Keys in the hurricane of 1733. Some 18 ships in the armada were lost. The Capitana had an estimated $6 million in precious metals on board; altogether, the fleet was carrying a combined $12 million (most of which was recovered by Spanish salvagers right after the wrecks). Famed salvager Art McKee salvaged the Capitana and several other ships in the fleet in the 1940s. McKee recovered thousands of artifacts from the wreckage and opened a treasure museum in Plantation Key, Fla., to display the collection.

Central America -- In 1857, a side-wheel steamer on its way from Panama to New York sank off the coast of Cuba following a severe storm. What made the Central America notable was that it was carrying nearly 600 passengers returning from the Gold Rush and some 21 tons of California gold then valued at $13 million. In 1987, the wreckage site was located by treasure hunter Tommy Thompson, who has since used high-tech equipment to help locate and recover thousands of gold coins, tons of gold bullion and other artifacts that rest thousands of feet below the surface.

HMS Edinburgh -- This British Destroyer was torpedoed by a German U-boat in 1942. It was abandoned and sunk by the British Navy to keep its precious cargo out of the hands of the enemy: five tons of Russian gold bullion that had been en route to the United States as payment for military supplies. The wreck, located more than 800 feet down in the icy waters near the Arctic Circle, was beyond the range of divers and forgotten about for some 40 years. However, the Edinburgh was finally salvaged in the 1980s by author Ric Wharton, who used deep diving technology developed for the North Sea oil industry to recover gold bars worth approximately $70 million. Wharton's salvage effort was the deepest ever carried out by divers.

No Buyers For 179-Carat "Vulcan" Diamond

2009-01-03T17:11:00.000-08:00

The largest single-crystal diamond ever to go on sale -- the 179 carat 'Vulcan' failed to find a buyer even at its opening price of 400,000 euros (dollars). The egg sized gem, weighing over 380 carats in its rough form, was expected to go under the auctioneer's hammer for well in excess of US$1 million, but the ten or so potential buyers attending the auction in Saint-Amand-Montrond, central France decided to forgo bidding on the stone.

The auctioneers blamed volatile global economic markets for the lack of interest in the rare gem. Skilled craftsman worked on the stone for some 15 years, cutting and polishing the black, pear-shaped diamond, which is now mounted on a platinum and white gold brooch.

The Vulcan is now headed home to its owner, where it is likely to remain for another decade or so.

Diva Las Vegas -- WJA Diva Awards June 19

2009-01-02T07:14:00.000-08:00

JUNE 19, 2002 - LAS VEGAS -- Entrants in the Women's Jewelry Association DIVA Awards managed to inject character and creativity into the competition's "Expressions of America" design theme.

At the ceremony held during the recent JCK Las Vegas Show, the winners of this year's contest were announced and their jewelry renderings were displayed.

First place and $2,500 was awarded to Shinka Kimura for her "Constitution" bracelet, created in homage to the historical document.

Keiko Mita received the second place award and $1,000 prize for her "Light of the World Trade Center" brooch designed to be manufactured in platinum and 18-karat gold and feature indicolite, ruby, sapphire and diamond.

Third place and $250 went to Naoyo Terada's "Stars in Melting Pot" necklace of 18-karat yellow and white gold and diamonds. According to Terada, "Even though each star (American) seems to have its own strong characteristic, the diversity of America's culture is what makes America a unique, great and strong nation."

Competition Chairperson, Vivianne DelSignore, felt the judging process was difficult due to the entries' high level of craftmenship. "Our judges had an especially challenging time this year because so many entries were such creative and fabulous interpretations of the theme, Expressions of America," DesSignore said.

House of Blues

2009-01-02T07:09:00.000-08:00

Blue gemstones are red hot this year, thanks to their beauty, versatility, mystique, abundant supply and relatively affordable prices. From aquamarine to tanzanite to sapphire to blue topaz (and many more), blue gemstone lovers have a variety of gems to pick from -- each with its own special properties.

It's really no surprise that we're so enamored with blue stones. We have a deep familiarity with the color, which symbolizes the heavens and the oceans. Blue is also said to be soothing to the soul -- the ancients believed that blue gemstones could calm upset emotions, allow the wearer to have a peaceful, restful sleep, purify the body and mind, and reduce pain and stop bleeding. The color blue also represents loyalty to ones country and is thought to promote peace, understanding, good will and friendship.

Another plus for blue -- it's a year-round color that blends perfectly with spring and summer lights and pastels, spices up fall earth tones and brightens winter darks. In terms of jewelry, blue gemstones look fabulous with diamond accents and work equally well set in yellow or white metal. It also is a color that's flattering to most skin tones.

The "big four" blue gemstones are aquamarine, blue topaz, sapphire and tanzanite. Here is a quick rundown of each stone and the qualities that make it a good choice for your next jewelry purchase:

Aquamarine - This gem is the birthstone for March, as well as the recommended gem for couples celebrating their 19th wedding anniversary. It comes in a range of blue shades, from pale pastel to greenish-blue to deep blue. The stone derives its name from the Latin term for seawater, and was prized by sailors who believed it would protect them while they were at sea. Aquamarine is the symbol for youth, hope, health and fidelity. The finest aquamarine displays a deep, pure blue, with no green tints. It ranks an 8 on the Mohs scale of hardness (out of 10), which means it is very durable and suitable for everyday wear. The stone is less prone to inclusions (internal flaws) than many other gems; therefore, it won't scratch or chip easily. Aquamarine is commonly heat-treated to permanently remove green overtones.
Blue Topaz - Although topaz comes in a rainbow of shades ranging from red to pink to orange to yellow to brown to green, it is particularly prized in blue for its clarity, durability and availability. However, topaz is rarely found in blue shades in nature. The vibrant blue shade of the gem we have come to love is typically created through a combination of heat treatment and irradiation. Blue topaz is often viewed as a less costly alternative to aquamarine and is the recommended jewelry gift for couples celebrating their fourth anniversary. Topaz is thought to have the widest range of curative powers of any gemstone -- from improving eyesight to increasing strength to making the wearer invisible to curing insomnia and other ailments, as well as many other properties. With its 8 ranking on the Mohs scale of hardness, it is a very durable gem.
Sapphire - Often thought of as the "ultimate" blue gemstone, sapphire has long symbolized truth, sincerity and faithfulness. Throughout history, this regal stone has been the gem of choice for kings and queens and is considered one of the "big four" precious stones (along with diamond, ruby and emerald). The birthstone for September, sapphire is also the recommended gem for couples celebrating their fifth and 45th wedding anniversaries. Although it is mined in many areas of the world, sapphires from Kashmir and Myanmar are particularly prized because of their vivid blue, velvety look. In addition to having an incomparable deep blue color, the most valuable sapphires are "eye clean," with little or no visible flaws. The gem has a ranking of 9 on the Mohs scale, making it one of the hardest known substances on earth (second only to a diamond). Most of today's sapphires are heat treated to maximize their color and clarity. Prices for premium stones can reach the stratosphere -- but for a less costly alternative, consider a lab created sapphire (such as pictured here). Since these stones are developed in a laboratory under ideal conditions, they often have color and clarity to rival the finest natural sapphires -- and they are available at a fraction of the cost.
Tanzanite - This rare, exotic gem is currently mined in only one location: the Merelani Hills of Tanzania in East Africa. Tanzanite is considered a new gem, since it was first "discovered" by the Western World in the 1960s. However, it has already made quite a mark on the jewelry industry, thanks to its rich blue and purple shades. In fact, tanzanite has fast become one of the most exciting, popular colored gemstones. With a 6.5 ranking on the Mohs scale of hardness, tanzanite is comparable in durability to an emerald; however, care should be taken to avoid impacts, high temperatures or other extreme conditions that could damage the stone. It is the recommended gem for couples celebrating their 24th wedding anniversary. Tanzanite has been in the news since last fall, due to the stone's alleged links to terrorism. However, Tanzanian officials and major gemstone associations have called the allegations unfounded, and earlier this year gave the stone a clean bill of health.

Famous Rubies Throughout History

2009-01-02T06:56:00.000-08:00

Rubies have captivated our hearts and imaginations for thousands of years. The gem's rarity, dramatic red color and rich heritage has made it more valuable and sought after than diamonds in many instances.

While the finest rubies have long been associated with royalty, it's interesting to note that some of the most famous "rubies" in crown jewels around the world are actually an "imposter" gemstone called spinel. For instance, the Black Prince's Ruby, a 170-carat stone adorning the Imperial State Crown in the British Crown Jewels, is a red spinel. Also, The Timur Ruby, a 352-carat red spinel now owned by Queen Elizabeth, has the names of Mughal (medieval India) emperors who previously owned it engraved on its face.

In honor of the magnificent ruby, which is the birthstone for July, Jewelry.com takes a look at a few of history's most famous rubies.

The largest known gem-quality ruby -- at 250 carats -- is on the crown of Charles IV of Luxembourg, King of Bohemia (1316-78). It was ordered in 1346 for the shrine containing the skull of Saint Wenceslas, Duke of Bohemia (921-29).
The 167-carat Edwardes Ruby, named after Major-General Sir Herbert Benjamin Edwardes (1819-68) who served for the British in India, was donated to the British Museum of Natural History in London by John Ruskin in 1887.
The 137-carat Rosser Reeves Ruby, a star ruby (domed stone that displays a luminous six-rayed star when viewed in the right light), is located in the Smithsonian Institute in Washington, D.C. It is considered the largest fine star ruby in existence.
The 100-carat DeLong Star Ruby was donated by Edith Haggin DeLong in 1937 to the American Museum of Natural History in New York.
The J.N. Forster Rubies are two large Burma rubies (37 and 47 carats) that were brought to England in 1875. These stones had been put on the market by the Burmese royal family and were later recut by Forster.
A 15.97-carat ruby belonging to U.S. geologist Allan Caplan was sold at auction in New York by Sotheby's in 1988 for $3.63 million. At $227,300 per carat, this made it the most expensive ruby in the world.
The Eminent Star Ruby, an oval cabochon (domed) star, is the largest ruby known. This 6,465 carat-cut stone weighed over 30,000 carats in the rough. Considered of mediocre quality, the gem is believed to have come from India and is currently owned by Kailash Rawat of Eminent Gems, New York.

2009-01-01T06:48:00.000-08:00

Diamond Jewelry

Diamonds maybe forever, but diamond jewelry is definitely for right now… A pair of elegant diamond studs, a stunning diamond pendant or a dazzling diamond ring – from casuals to couture, diamond jewelry is the perfect accessory for every occasion.

Once believed to be teardrops of the Gods, worn only by nobility, diamond jewelry is now affordable for all. From fashion-forward diamond pendants starting at $100 to statement diamond rings and necklaces worth millions, it’s just a matter of finding your perfect gem.

From diamond bracelets, bangles and cuffs stacked up the arm, to spotlight stealing cocktail rings, the incomparable brilliance, elegance, durability and mystery of this legendary stone has captured our imagination for thousands of years.

Now, it’s time to let your imagination run free. Whether you want to learn more about the 4Cs (Cut, Clarity, Carat and Color), hunt for a diamond bargain, or find the diamond cut of your dreams.

History jewelry

2008-12-29T05:22:00.000-08:00

History

The history of jewellery is a long one, with many different uses among different cultures. It has endured for thousands of years and has provided various insights into how ancient cultures worked.

Early history

The Nassarius beads from Blombos Cave thought to be the oldest form of jewellery.

The first signs of jewellery came from the Homo sapiens in Africa. Perforated beeds made from snail shells have been found dating to 75,000 years ago at Blombos Cave. In Kenya, at Enkapune Ya Muto, beeds made from perforated ostrich egg shells have been dating to more than 40,000 years ago. The Cro-Magnons originally from Africa, migrated from the Middle East to settle in Europe and replace the Neanderthals as the dominant species. The jewellery pieces they made were crude necklaces and bracelets of bone, teeth and stone hung on pieces of string or animal sinew, or pieces of carved bone used to secure clothing together. In some cases, jewellery had shell or mother-of-pearl pieces. In southern Russia, carved bracelets made of mammoth tusk have been found. Most commonly, these have been found as grave-goods. Around 7,000 years ago, the first sign of copper jewellery was seen.

Egypt

Amulet pendant (254 BCE) made from gold, lapis lazuli, turquoise and carnelian, 14 cm wide.

The first signs of established jewellery making in Ancient Egypt was around 3,000-5,000 years ago.The Egyptians preferred the luxury, rarity, and workability of gold over other metals. Predynastic Egypt had Jewellery in Egypt soon began to symbolize power and religious power in the community. Although it was worn by wealthy Egyptians in life, it was also worn by them in death, with jewellery commonly placed among grave goods.

In conjunction with gold jewellery, Egyptians used coloured glass in place of precious gems. Although the Egyptians had access to gemstones, they preferred the colours they could create in glass over the natural colours of stones. For nearly each gemstone, there was a glass formulation used by the Egyptians to mimic it. The colour of the jewellery was very important, as different colours meant different things; the Book of the Dead dictated that the necklace of Isis around a mummy’s neck must be red to satisfy Isis’s need for blood, while green jewellery meant new growth for crops and fertility. Although lapis lazuli and silver had to be imported from beyond the country’s borders, most other materials for jewellery were found in or near Egypt, for example in the Red Sea, where the Egyptians mined Cleopatra's favourite gem, the emerald. Egyptian jewellery was predominantly made in large workshops attached to temples or palaces.

Egyptian designs were most common in Phoenician jewellery. Also, ancient Turkish designs found in Persian jewellery suggest that trade between the Middle East and Europe was not uncommon. Women wore elaborate gold and silver pieces that were used in ceremonies.^[18]

Europe and the Middle East

Mesopotamia

By approximately 4,000 years ago, jewellery-making had become a significant craft in the cities of Sumer and Akkad. The most significant archaeological evidence comes from the Royal Cemetery of Ur, where hundreds of burials dating 2900–2300 BC were unearthed; tombs such as that of Puabi contained a multitude of artifacts in gold, silver, and semi-precious stones, such as lapis lazuli crowns embellished with gold figurines, close-fitting collar necklaces, and jewel-headed pins. In Assyria, men and women both wore extensive amounts of jewellery, including amulets, ankle bracelets, heavy multi-strand necklaces, and cylinder seals.

Jewellery in Mesopotamia tended to be manufactured from thin metal leaf and was set with large numbers of brightly-coloured stones (chiefly agate, lapis, carnelian, and jasper). Favoured shapes included leaves, spirals, cones, and bunches of grapes. Jewellers created works both for human use and for adorning statues and idols; they employed a wide variety of sophisticated metalworking techniques, such as cloisonne, engraving, fine granulation, and filigree.

Extensive and meticulously maintained records pertaining to the trade and manufacture of jewellery have also been unearthed throughout Mesopotamian archaeological sites. One record in the Mari royal archives, for example, gives the composition of various items of jewellery:

Greece

Gold earring from Mycenae, 16th century BCE.

The Greeks started using gold and gems in jewellery in 1,400 BC, although beads shaped as shells and animals were produced widely in earlier times. By 300 BC, the Greeks had mastered making coloured jewellery and using amethysts, pearl and emeralds. Also, the first signs of cameos appeared, with the Greeks creating them from Indian Sardonyx, a striped brown pink and cream agate stone. Greek jewellery was often simpler than in other cultures, with simple designs and workmanship. However, as time progressed the designs grew in complexity different materials were soon utilized.

Pendant with naked woman, made from electrum, Rhodes, around 630-620 BCE.

Jewellery in Greece was hardly worn and was mostly used for public appearances or on special occasions. It was frequently given as a gift and was predominantly worn by women to show their wealth, social status and beauty. The jewellery was often supposed to give the wearer protection from the “Evil Eye” or endowed the owner with supernatural powers, while others had a religious symbolism. Older pieces of jewellery that have been found were dedicated to the Gods. The largest production of jewellery in these times came from Northern Greece and Macedon. However, although much of the jewellery in Greece was made of gold and silver with ivory and gems, bronze and clay copies were made also.

Ancient Greek jewellery from 300 BCE.

They worked two styles of pieces; cast pieces and pieces hammered out of sheet metal. Fewer pieces of cast jewellery have been recovered; it was made by casting the metal onto two stone or clay moulds. Then the two halves were joined together and wax and then molten metal, was placed in the centre. This technique had been practised since the late Bronze Age. The more common form of jewellery was the hammered sheet type. Sheets of metal would be hammered to thickness and then soldered together. The inside of the two sheets would be filled with wax or another liquid to preserve the metal work. Different techniques, such as using a stamp or engraving, were then used to create motifs on the jewellery. Jewels may then be added to hollows or glass poured into special cavities on the surface. The Greeks took much of their designs from outer origins, such as Asia when Alexander the Great conquered part of it. In earlier designs, other European influences can also be detected. When Roman rule came to Greece, no change in jewellery designs was detected. However, by 27 BC, Greek designs were heavily influenced by the Roman culture. That is not to say that indigenous design did not thrive; numerous polychrome butterfly pendants on silver foxtail chains, dating from the 1st century, have been found near Olbia, with only one example ever found anywhere else.

Rome

Roman Amethyst intaglio pendant, c. 212 CE; later converted to St. Peter medallion.

Although jewellery work was abundantly diverse in earlier times, especially among the barbarian tribes such as the Celts, when the Romans conquered most of Europe, jewellery was changed as smaller factions developed the Roman designs. The most common artefact of early Rome was the brooch, which was used to secure clothing together. The Romans used a diverse range of materials for their jewellery from their extensive resources across the continent. Although they used gold, they sometimes used bronze or bone and in earlier times, glass beads & pearl. As early as 2,000 years ago, they imported Sri Lankan sapphires and Indian diamonds and used emeralds and amber in their jewellery. In Roman-ruled England, fossilized wood called jet from Northern England was often carved into pieces of jewellery. The early Italians worked in crude gold and created clasps, necklaces, earrings and bracelets. They also produced larger pendants which could be filled with perfume.

Like the Greeks, often the purpose of Roman jewellery was to ward off the “Evil Eye” given by other people. Although women wore a vast array of jewellery, men often only wore a finger ring. Although they were expected to wear at least one ring, some Roman men wore a ring on every finger, while others wore none. Roman men and women wore rings with a carved stone on it that was used with wax to seal documents, an act that continued into medieval times when kings and noblemen used the same method. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the jewellery designs were absorbed by neighbouring countries and tribes.

Middle Ages

Merovingian fibulae, Bibliothèque Nationale de France.

6th century bronze eagle-shaped Visigothic cloisonné fibula from Guadalajara, Spain.

Post-Roman Europe continued to develop jewellery making skills; the Celts and Merovingians in particular are noted for their jewellery, which in terms of quality matched or exceeded that of Byzantium. Clothing fasteners, amulets, and to a lesser extent signet rings are the most common artefacts known to us; a particularly striking celtic example is the Tara Brooch. The Torc was common throughout Europe as a symbol of status and power. By the 8th century, jewelled weaponry was common for men, while other jewellery (with the exception of signet rings) seems to become the domain of women. Grave goods found in a 6th-7th century burial near Chalon-sur-Saône are illustrative; the young girl was buried with: 2 silver fibulae, a necklace (with coins), bracelet, gold earings, a pair of hair-pins, comb, and buckle.The Celts specialized in continuous patterns and designs; while Merovingian designs are best known for stylized animal figures.They were not the only groups known for high quality work; note the Visigoth work shown here, and the numerous decorative objects found at the Anglo-Saxon Ship burial at Sutton Hoo Suffolk, England, are a particularly well-known example.On the continent, cloisonné and garnet were perhaps the quintessential method and gemstone of the period.

Byzantine wedding ring.

The Eastern successor of the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire, continued many of the methods of the Romans, though religious themes came to predominate. Unlike the Romans, the Franks, and the Celts, however; Byzantium used light-weight gold leaf rather than solid gold, and more emphasis was placed on stones and gems. As in the West, Byzantine jewellery was worn by wealthier females, with male jewellery apparently restricted to signet rings. Like other contemporary cultures, jewellery was commonly buried with its owner.

Renaissance

Sardonyx cameo.

The Renaissance and exploration both had significant impacts on the development of jewellery in Europe. By the 17th century, increasing exploration and trade lead to increased availability of a wide variety of gemstones as well as exposure to the art of other cultures. Whereas prior to this the working of gold and precious metal had been at the forefront of jewellery, this period saw increasing dominance of gemstones and their settings. A fascinating example of this is the Cheapside Hoard, the stock of a jeweller hidden in London England during the Commonwealth period and not found again until 1912. It contained Colombian emerald, topaz, amazonite from Brazil, spinel, iolite, and chrysoberyl from Sri Lanka, ruby from India, Afghani lapis lazuli, Persian turquoise, Red Sea peridot, as well as Bohemian and Hungarian opal, garnet, and amethyst. Large stones were frequently set in box-bezels on enamelled rings.Notable among merchants of the period was Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, who in the 1660s brought the precursor stone of the Hope Diamond to France.

When Napoleon Bonaparte was crowned as Emperor of the French in 1804, he revived the style and grandeur of jewellery and fashion in France. Under Napoleon’s rule, jewellers introduced parures, suites of matching jewellery, such as a diamond tiara, diamond earrings, diamond rings, a diamond brooch and a diamond necklace. Both of Napoleon’s wives had beautiful sets such as these and wore them regularly. Another fashion trend resurrected by Napoleon was the cameo. Soon after his cameo decorated crown was seen, cameos were highly sought after. The period also saw the early stages of costume jewellery, with fish scale covered glass beads in place of pearls or conch shell cameos instead of stone cameos. New terms were coined to differentiate the arts: jewellers who worked in cheaper materials were called bijoutiers, while jewellers who worked with expensive materials were called joailliers; a practice which continues to this day.

Romanticism

Mourning jewellery in the form of a jet brooch, 19th century.

Starting in the late 18th century, Romanticism had a profound impact on the development of western jewellery. Perhaps the most significant influences were the public’s fascination with the treasures being discovered through the birth of modern archaeology, and the fascination with Medieval and Renaissance art. Changing social conditions and the onset of the industrial revolution also lead to growth of a middle class that wanted and could afford jewellery. As a result, the use of industrial processes, cheaper alloys, and stone substitutes, lead to the development of paste or costume jewellery. Distinguished goldsmiths continued to flourish, however, as wealthier patrons sought to ensure that what they wore still stood apart from the jewellery of the masses, not only through use of precious metals and stones but also though superior artistic and technical work; one such artist was the French goldsmith Françoise Désire Fromment Meurice. A category unique to this period and quite appropriate to the philosophy of romanticism was mourning jewellery. It originated in England, where Queen Victoria was often seen wearing jet jewellery after the death of Prince Albert; and allowed the wearer to continue wearing jewellery while expressing a state of mourning at the death of a loved one.

In the United states, this period saw the founding in 1837 of Tiffany & Co. by Charles Lewis Tiffany. Tiffany's put the United States on the world map in terms of jewellery, and gained fame creating dazzling commissions for people such as the wife of Abraham Lincoln; later it would gain popular notoriety as the setting of the film Breakfast at Tiffany's. In France, Pierre Cartier founded Cartier SA in 1847, while 1884 saw the founding of Bulgari in Italy. The modern production studio had been born; a step away from the former dominance of individual craftsmen and patronage.

This period also saw the first major collaboration between East and West; collaboration in Pforzheim between German and Japanese artists lead to Shakudo plaques set into Filigree frames being created by the Stoeffler firm in 1885).Perhaps the grand finalé – and an appropriate transition to the following period – were the masterful creations of the Russian artist Peter Carl Fabergé, working for the Imperial Russian court, whose Fabergé eggs and jewellery pieces are still considered as the epitome of the goldsmith’s art.

Art Nouveau

In the 1890s, jewellers began to explore the potential of the growing Art Nouveau style. Very closely related were the German Jugendstil, British (and to some extent American) Arts and Crafts movement. Art Nouveau jewellery encompassed many distinct features including a focus on the female form and an emphasis on colour, most commonly rendered through the use of enamelling techniques including basse-taille, champleve, cloisonné and plique a jour. Motifs included orchids, irises, pansies, vines, swans, peacocks, snakes, dragonflies, mythological creatures and the female silhouette. Rene Lalique, working for the Paris shop of Samuel Bing, was recognized by contemporaries as a leading figure in this trend. The Darmstadt Artists' Colony and Wiener Werkstaette provided perhaps the most significant German input to the trend, while in Denmark Georg Jensen, though best known for his Silverware, also contributed significant pieces. In England, Liberty & Co and the British arts & crafts movement of Charles Robert Ashbee contributed slightly more linear but still characteristic designs. The new style moved the focus of the jeweller's art from the setting of stones to the artistic design of the piece itself; Lalique's dragonfly design is one of the best examples of this. Enamels played a large role in technique, while sinuous organic lines are the most recognizable design feature. The end of World War One once again changed public attitudes; and a more sober style came in.

Art Deco

Growing political tensions, the after-effects of the war, and a reaction against the perceived decadence of the turn of the century led to simpler forms, combined with more effective manufacturing for mass production of high-quality jewellery. Covering the period of the 1920s and 1930s, the style has become popularly known as Art Deco. Walter Gropius and the German Bauhaus movement, with their philosophy of "no barriers between artists and craftsmen" lead to some interesting and stylistically simplified forms. Modern materials were also introduced: plastics and aluminum were first used in jewellery, and of note are the chromed pendants of Russian born Bauhaus master Naum Slutzky. Technical mastery became as valued as the material itself; in the west, this period saw the reinvention of granulation by the German Elizabeth Treskow (although development of the re-invention has continued into the 1990s).

Jewish jewellery

In the Jewish culture jewellery have played an important role since biblical times. There are references in the bible to the custom of wearing jewellery both as a decoration and as a symbol. Now, Jewish jewellery is worn to show affiliation with the religion, and as talismans and amulets.

The Star of David ("Magen David" in Hebrew) is the symbol most recognized with Judaism. It was used in Israel in Roman times, but it seems to have become associated with Judaism in particular only in later centuries. In the 17th century it became a practice to put the Star of David on the outside of synagogues, to identify them as Jewish houses of worship; however, it is not clear why this symbol was selected for this. Today the Star of David is a universally recognized symbol of Jews. It appears on the flag of the state of Israel, and the Israeli equivalent of the Red Cross is known as "the Magen David Adom" ("Adom" is red in Hebrew). One of the most common symbols in Jewish jewellery is the Star of David, equivalent to wearing a cross by Christians.

Another popular symbol used in Jewish jewellery is the Hamsa, also known as the "Hamesh hand". The Hamsa appears often in a stylized form, as a hand with three fingers raised, and sometimes with two thumbs arranged symmetrically. Its five fingers are said to symbolize the five books if the Torah. The symbol is used for protection and as a mean to ward of the Evil eye in amulets and charms and can also be found in various places such as home entrances and cars. It is also common to place other symbols in the middle of the Hamsa that are believed to help against the evil eye such as fish, eyes and the Star of David. The colour blue, or more specifically light blue, is also considered protective against the evil eye and many Hamsas are in that colour or with embedded gemstones in different shades of blue. Hamsas are often decorated with Jewish prayers of a protective fashion such as the Sh'ma Prayer, the Birkat HaBayit (Blessing for the Home), or the Tefilat HaDerech (Traveler's Prayer).

The Chai symbol, popularly worn on necklaces, is the Hebrew word "Chai" (means 'living'), consisting of the two Hebrew letters Chet and Yod. This word refers to God. According to the gematrian system, the letters of Chai add up to 18. There have been many mystical numerological speculations about this fact and the custom to give donations and monetary gifts in multiples of 18 as a blessing for long life is very common in Jewish circles.

Other motives found in Jewish jewellery are symbols from the Kabbalah (also known as kabala, cabala) such as the Merkaba, a three-dimensional Star of David, and the Tree of life. Pieces of jewellery are decorated with parts or initials of known Jewish prayers and with 3-letters combinations, believed to represent different names of the Jewish God.

Asia

Royal earrings, Andhra Pradesh, 1st Century BC.

In Asia, the Indian subcontinent has the longest continuous legacy of jewellery making anywhere, with a history of over 5,000 years. ^[30] One of the first to start jewellery making were the peoples of the Indus Valley Civilization. Early jewellery making in China started around the same period, but it became widespread with the spread of Buddhism around 2,000 years ago.

China

The earliest culture to begin making jewellery in Asia was the Chinese around 5,000 years ago. Chinese jewellery designs were very religion-orientated and contained Buddhist symbols, a fact which remains to this day.

Jade coiled serpent, Han Dynasty (202 BC-220 AD)

The Chinese used silver in their jewellery more often than gold, and decorated it with their favourite colour, blue. Blue kingfisher feathers were tied onto early Chinese jewellery and later, blue gems and glass were incorporated into designs. However, Chinese preferred jade over any other stone. They fashioned it using diamonds. The Chinese revered jade because of the human-like qualities they assigned to it, such as its hardness, durability and beauty.The first jade pieces were very simple, but as time progressed, more complex designs evolved. Jade rings from between the 4th and 7th centuries BCE show evidence of having been worked with a compound milling machine; hundreds of years before the first mention of such equipment in the west.

In China, jewellery was worn frequently by both sexes to show their nobility and wealth. However, in later years, it was used to accentuate beauty. Women wore highly detailed gold and silver head dresses and other items, while men wore decorative hat buttons which showed rank and gold or silver rings. Woman also wore strips of gold on their foreheads, much like women in the Indus Valley. The band was an early form of tiara and was often decorated with precious gems. The most common piece of jewellery worn by Chinese was the earring, which was worn by both men and women. Amulets were also common too, often with a Chinese symbol or dragon. In fact, dragons, Chinese symbols and also phoenixes were frequently depicted on jewellery designs.

The Chinese often placed their jewellery in their graves; most Chinese graves found by archaeologists contain decorative jewellery.

India

The Indian subcontinent has the longest continuous legacy of jewellery making anywhere since Ramayana and Mahabharata times. While Western traditions were heavily influenced by waxing and waning empires, India enjoyed a continuous development of art forms for some 5000 years.^[33] One of the first to start jewellery making were the peoples of the Indus Valley Civilization. By 1,500 BC the peoples of the Indus Valley were creating gold earrings and necklaces, bead necklaces and metallic bangles. Before 2,100 BC, prior to the period when metals were widely used, the largest jewellery trade in the Indus Valley region was the bead trade. Beads in the Indus Valley were made using simple techniques. First, a bead maker would need a rough stone, which would be bought from an eastern stone trader. The stone would then be placed into a hot oven where it would be heated until it turned deep red, a colour highly prized by people of the Indus Valley. The red stone would then be chipped to the right size and a hole drilled through it with primitive drills. The beads were then polished. Some beads were also painted with designs. This art form was often passed down through family; children of bead makers often learnt how to work beads from a young age.

Jewellery in the Indus Valley was worn predominantly by females, who wore numerous clay or shell bracelets on their wrists. They were often shaped like doughnuts and painted black. Over time, clay bangles were discarded for more durable ones. In India today, bangles are made out of metal or glass. Other pieces that women frequently wore were thin bands of gold that would be worn on the forehead, earrings, primitive brooches, chokers and gold rings. Although women wore jewellery the most, some men in the Indus Valley wore beads. Small beads were often crafted to be placed in men and women’s hair. The beads were about one millimetre long.

A female skeleton (presently on display at the National Museum, New Delhi, India) wears a carlinean bangle ( a bracelet) on her left hand.

India was the first country to mine diamonds, with some mines dating back to 296 BC. India traded the diamonds, realising their valuable qualities. This trade almost vanished 1,000 years after Christianity grew as a religion, as Christians rejected the diamonds which were used in Indian religious amulets. Along with Arabians from the Middle East restricting the trade, India’s diamond jewellery trade lulled.

Today, many of the jewellery designs and traditions are still used and jewellery is commonplace in Indian ceremonies and weddings.

Americas

This gold and turquoise necklace, made nearly 4,000 years ago in southern Peru, is the earliest known gold jewelry made in the Americas.

Jewellery played a major role in the fate of the Americas when the Spanish established an empire to seize South American gold. Jewellery making developed in the Americas 5,000 years ago in Central and South America. Large amounts of gold was easily accessible, and the Aztecs, the Mayans and numerous Andean cultures like the Mochica of Peru created beautiful pieces of jewelry.

With the Mochica culture, goldwork flourished. The pieces are no longer simple metalwork, but are now masterful examples of jewelry making. Piece are sophisticated in their design, and feature inlays of turquoise, mother of pearl, spondylus shell, and amethyst. The nose and ear ornaments, chest plates, small containers and whistles are considered masterpieces of ancient Peruvian culture.

Moche Ear Ornaments. 1-800 AD. Larco Museum Collection, Lima-Peru

Among the Aztecs, only nobility wore gold jewellery, as it showed their rank, power and wealth. Gold jewellery was most common in the Aztec Empire and was often decorated with feathers from birds. The main purpose of Aztec jewellery was to draw attention, with richer and more powerful Aztecs wearing brighter, more expensive jewellery and clothes. Although gold was the most common and popular material used in Aztec jewellery, silver was also readily available throughout the American empires. In addition to adornment and status, the Aztecs also used jewellery in sacrifices to appease the gods. Priests also used gem encrusted daggers to perform animal and human sacrifices.

Another ancient American civilization with expertise in jewellery making was the Maya. At the peak of their civilization, the Maya were making jewellery from jade, gold, silver, bronze and copper. Maya designs were similar to those of the Aztecs, with lavish head dresses and jewellery. The Maya also traded in precious gems. However, in earlier times, the Maya had little access to metal, so made the majority of their jewellery out of bone or stone. Merchants and nobility were the only few that wore expensive jewellery in the Maya Empire, much the same as with the Aztecs.

In North America, Native Americans used shells, wood, turquoise, and soapstone, almost unavailable in South and Central America. The turquoise was used in necklaces and to be placed in earrings. Native Americans with access to oyster shells, often located in only one location in America, traded the shells with other tribes, showing the great importance of the body adornment trade in Northern America.

Pacific

Jewellery in the Pacific

Jewellery making in the Pacific started later than in other areas because of recent human settlement. Early Pacific jewellery was made of bone, wood and other natural materials, and thus has not survived. Most Pacific jewellery is worn above the waist, with headdresses, necklaces, hair pins and arm and waist belts being the most common pieces.

Jewellery in the Pacific, with the exception of Australia, is worn to be a symbol of either fertility or power. Elaborate headdresses are worn by many Pacific cultures and some, such as the inhabitants of Papua New Guinea, wear certain headresses once they have killed an enemy. Tribesman may wear boar bones through their noses.

Island jewellery is still very much primal because of the lack of communication with outside cultures; some areas of Borneo and Papua New Guinea are yet to be explored by Western nations. However, the island nations which were flooded with Western missionaries have had drastic changes made to their jewellery designs. Missionaries saw any type of tribal jewellery as a sign of the wearer's devotion to paganism. Thus many tribal designs were lost forever in the mass conversion to Christianity.

A modern opal bracelet

Australia is now the number one supplier of opals in the world. Opals had already been mined in Europe and South America for many years prior, but in the late 1800s, the Australian opal market became predominant. Australian opals are only mined in a few select places around the country, making it one the most profitable stones in the Pacific.^[37]

One of the few cultures to today still create their jewellery as they did many centuries prior is the New Zealand Māori, who create Hei-tiki. The reason the hei-tiki is worn is not apparent; it may either relate to ancestral connections, as Tiki was the first Māori, or fertility, as there is a strong connection between this and Tiki. Another suggestion from historians is that the Tiki is a product of the ancient belief of a god named Tiki, perhaps dating back to before the Māoris settled in New Zealand. Hei-tikis are traditionally carved by hand from bone (commonly whale), nephrite or bowenite; a lengthy and spiritual process. The Hei-tiki is now popular amongst tourists who can buy it from souvenir or jeweller shops.

Other than jewellery created through Māori influence, jewellery in New Zealand remains similar to other western civilizations; multi cultural and varied. This is more noticeable in New Zealand because of its high levels of non-European citizens.

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Jewellery (also spelled jewelry, see spelling differences) is a personal orname nt, such as a necklace, ring, or bracelet, made from gemstones, precious met als or other materials.

The word jewellery is derived from the word jewel, which was anglicised from the Old French "jouel" circa the 13th century.Further tracing leads back to the Latin word "jocale", meaning plaything. Jewellery is one of the oldest forms of body adornment; recently found 100,000 year-old beads made from Nassarius shells are thought to be the oldest known jewellery.

Although during earlier times jewellery was created for practical uses such as wealth storage and pinning clothes together, in recent times it has been used almost exclusively for decoration. The first pieces of jewellery were made from natural materials, such as bone, animal teeth, shell, wood and carved stone. Jewellery was often made for people of high importance to show their status and, in many cases, they were buried with it.

Jewellery has been made to adorn nearly every body part, from hairpins to to e r ings and many more types of jewellery. While high-quality is made with gemstones and precious metals, there is also a growing demand for art jewellery where design and creativity is prized above material value. In addition, there is the less-costly costume jewellery, made from less-valuable materials and mass-produced. New variations include wire sculpture (wrap) jewellery, using anything from base metal wire with rock tumbled stone to precious metals and precious gemstones.

Materials and methods 2

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Diamonds

Diamonds were first mined in India.Pliny may have mentioned them, although there is some debate as to the exact nature of the stone he referred to as Adamas, In 2005, Australia, Botswana, Russia and Canada ranked among the primary sources of gemstone diamond production.

The British crown jewels contain the Cullinan Diamond, part of the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found (1905), at 3,106.75 carats (621.35 g).

Now popular in engagement rings, this usage dates back to the marriage of Maximilian I to Mary of Burgundy in 1477.

Other gemstones

Many precious and semiprecious stones are used for jewellery. Among them are:

Amber: Amber, an ancient organic gemstone, is composed of tree resin that has hardened over time. The stone must be at least 1 million years old to be classified as amber, and some amber can be up to 120 million years old.

Amethyst: Amethyst has historically been the most prized gemstone in the quartz family. It is treasured for its purple hue, which can range in tone from light to dark.

Emerald: Emeralds are one of the three main precious gemstones (along with rubies and sapphires) and are known for their fine green to bluish green colour. They have been treasured throughout history, and some historians report that the Egyptians mined emerald as early as 3500 BC.

Jade: Jade is most commonly associated with the colour green, but can come in a number of other colours as well. Jade is closely linked to Asian culture, history, and tradition, and is sometimes referred to as the “stone of heaven.”

Jasper: Jasper is a gemstone of the chalcedony family that comes in a variety of colours. Often, jasper will feature unique and interesting patterns within the coloured stone. Picture jasper is a type of jasper known for the colours (often beiges and browns) and swirls in the stone’s pattern.

Quartz: Quartz refers to a family of crystalline gemstones of various colours and sizes. Among the well-known types of quartz are rose quartz (which has a delicate pink colour), and smoky quartz (which comes in a variety of shades of translucent brown). A number of other gemstones — like Amethyst and Citrine — are also part of the quartz family. Rutilated quartz is a popular type of quartz containing needle-like inclusions.

Ruby: Rubies are known for their intense red colour, and are among the most highly valued precious gemstones. Rubies have been treasured for millennia. In Sanskrit, the word for ruby is “ratnaraj”, meaning “king of precious stones.”

Sapphire: The most popular form of sapphire is blue sapphire, which is known for its medium to deep blue colour and strong saturation. Fancy coloured sapphires in various colours are also available. In the United States, blue sapphire tends to be the most popular and most affordable of the three major precious gemstones (emerald, ruby, and sapphire).

Turquoise: Turquoise is found in only a few places on earth, and the world’s largest turquoise producing region is the southwest United States. Turquoise is prized for its attractive colour — most often an intense medium blue or a greenish blue — and its ancient heritage. Turquoise is used in a great variety of jewellery styles. It is perhaps most closely associated with southwest and Native American jewellery, but it is also used in many sleek, modern styles. Some turquoise contains a matrix of dark brown markings, which provides an interesting contrast to the gemstone’s bright blue colour.

Some gemstones (like pearls, coral, and amber) are classified as organic, meaning that they are produced by living organisms. Others are inorganic, meaning that they are generally composed of and arise from minerals.

Some gems, for example, amethyst, have become less valued as methods of extracting and importing them have progressed. Some man-made gems can serve in place of natural gems, an example is the cubic zirconia, used in place of the diamond.

Metal finishes

For platinum, gold, and silver jewellery there are many techniques to create finishes. The most common are high-polish, satin/matte, brushed, and hammered. High-polished jewellery is by far the most common and gives the metal the highly-reflective and shiny look. Satin, or matte finish reduces the shine and reflection of the jewellery and is commonly used to accentuate gemstones such as diamonds. Brushed finishes give the jewellery a textured look, and are created by brushing a material (similar to sandpaper) against the metal, leaving 'brush strokes'. Hammered finishes are typically created by using a soft, rounded hammer and hammering the jewellery to give it a wavy texture.

Some jewellery is plated to give it a shiny, reflective look or to achieve a desired colour. Sterling silver jewellery may be plated with a thin layer of .999 fine silver (a process known as flashing) or may be plated with rhodium or gold. Base metal costume jewellery may also be plated with silver, gold, or rhodium for a more attractive finish.

Materials and methods

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Anticlastic forged sterling bracelet.

In creating jewellery, gemstones, coins, or other precious items are often used, and they are typically set into precious metals. Alloys of nearly every metal known have been encountered in jewellery -- bronze, for example, was common in Roman times. Modern fine jewellery usually includes gold, white gold, platinum, palladium, titanium or silver. Most American and European gold jewellery is made of an alloy of gold, the purity of which is stated in karats, indicated by a number followed by the letter K. American gold jewellery must be of at least 10K purity (41.7% pure gold), (though in England the number is 9K (37.5% pure gold) and is typically found up to 18K (75% pure gold). Higher purity levels are less common with alloys at 22 K (91.6% pure gold), and 24 K (99.9% pure gold) being considered too soft for jewellery use in America and Europe. These high purity alloys, however, are widely used across Asia, the Middle East, and Africa. Platinum alloys range from 900 (90% pure) to 950 (95.0% pure). The silver used in jewellery is usually sterling silver, or 92.5% fine silver. In costume jewellery, stainless steel findings are sometimes used.

Other commonly used materials include glass, such as fused-glass or enamel; wood, often carved or turned; shells and other natural animal substances such as bone and ivory; natural clay; polymer clay; and even plastics. Hemp and other twines have been used as well to create jewellery that has more of a natural feel. However, any inclusion of lead or lead solder will cause an English Assay office (the building which gives English jewellery its stamp of approval, the Hallmark) to destroy the piece.

Bead embroidery design.

Beads are frequently used in jewellery. These may be made of glass, gemstones, metal, wood, shells, clay and polymer clay. Beaded jewellery commonly encompasses necklaces, bracelets, earrings, belts, and rings. Beads may be large or small, the smallest type of beads used are known as seed beads, these are the beads used for the "woven" style of beaded jewellery. Another use of seed beads is an embroidery technique where seed beads are sewn onto fabric backings to create broad collar neck pieces and beaded bracelets. Bead embroidery, a popular type of handwork during the Victorian era is enjoying a renaissance in modern jewellery making. Beading, or beadwork, is also very popular in many African cultures.

Advanced glass and glass beadmaking techniques by Murano and Venetian glassmasters developed crystalline glass, enameled glass (smalto), glass with threads of gold (goldstone), multicoloured glass (millefiori), milk-glass (lattimo) and imitation gemstones made of glass. As early as the 13th century, Murano glass and Murano beads were popular.

Silversmiths, goldsmiths, and lapidaries methods include forging, casting, soldering or welding, cutting, carving, and "cold-joining" (using adhesives, staples, and rivets to assemble parts).

jewelry news

2008-12-03T17:15:00.000-08:00

Sapphire: History's Most Famous Blue Gemstone

Throughout history, sapphire, September's birthstone, has been considered the ultimate blue gemstone. This regal stone is so valued, it is actually the recommended gem for couples celebrating both their fifth and 45th anniversaries.

Although sapphire, a variety of corundum, is most valued in deep blue, the stone comes in a variety of hues, including pink, green, orange, yellow, purple, gray, black, brown, and colorless. Some sapphires even display a six-rayed star pattern when cut into cabochons (domed, unfaceted stones) and are appropriately called star sapphires. The only color you won't find a sapphire in is red -- the red variety of corundum is called ruby.

The word sapphire has roots in several languages: the Arabs called the stone "safir"; the Romans called it "sapphirus" (meaning blue); and the Greeks called it "sappheiros" after the island of sappherine in the Arabian Sea where sapphires were found at that time.

During the Middle Ages, sapphire was thought to represent purity of the soul. It was believed that the stone's color would darken if worn by an "impure" or wicked person. Sapphire was also considered the "Oracle's Stone" and was used to safeguard and foretell the future. The ancients believed the Ten Commandments were written on a sapphire tablet.

The world's finest sapphires used to come from Kashmir, India, but the mines there are now considered depleted. Stones from this region are characterized by their deep cornflower blue color and silky sheen. Incomparable sapphires were dug from one legendary ancient Kashmire mine, but its location is lost in the mists of time -- thus adding to the stones' mystique. Current important sapphire-producing locales include Australia, Myanmar (Burma), Sri Lanka and Thailand. Sapphires also can be found in Cambodia, China, Kenya, Nigeria, Tanzania and the United States (primarily in Montana). Large sapphires are quite rare, and are often given names such as with notable diamonds. Two of the most famous sapphires are part of the British Crown Jewels in the Tower of London. The St. Edwards Sapphire is a rose-cut gem of unknown size set in the finial cross of the Imperial Crown. It derives its name from Edward the Confessor, who wore the stone on a ring during his coronation in 1042. The Stuart Sapphire is a 104-carat oval mounted on the band at the rear of the Imperial Crown. Another famous sapphire associated with British royalty is the one that Prince Charles presented to Princess Diana to seal their engagement. The oval blue, 18-carat sapphire is surrounded by diamonds and set in sterling silver.

Here are a few of history's other notable sapphires. Many are on display in museums and private collections around the world:

The Star of India -- A 536-carat blue cabochon-cut star sapphire thought to be the largest cut sapphire -- is part of the Morgan-Tiffany Collection in the American Museum of Natural History in New York.
The Blue Giant of the Orient -- A 446-carat sapphire from Sri Lanka.
The Blue Belle of Asia -- This 400-carat stone from Sri Lanka is the largest sapphire in the British Crown.
The Logan Sapphire -- A 423-carat cushion-cut blue from Sri Lanka. The piece was donated to the Smithsonian Institute in Washington, D.C., in 1960 by Mrs. John A. Logan.
The Ruspoli -- A 135-carat rhomb-shaped (six facets) blue stone -- resides in France's National Museum of Natural History in Paris. During the 17th century, a Roman prince named Ruspoli sold the sapphire to a salesman, who in turn, sold it to King Louis XIV sometime before 1691. At the time it was the third most prominent gem in the French Crown Jewels.
The Star of Asia -- A 330-carat blue cabochon-cut star sapphire -- also resides in the Smithsonian Institute.
The Midnight Star -- A 116-carat, black cabochon-cut star sapphire -- is also in the American Museum of Natural History.
The Star of Bombay -- A 182-carat, cabochon-cut, blue-violet star sapphire that was bequeathed to the Smithsonian by famous actress Mary Pickford.
Catherine the Great's Sapphire -- A 337-carat, faceted oval blue owned by the Diamond Fund of Moscow.
Kazanjian Sapphire Carvings -- Huge star sapphires from Australia have been carved into busts of U.S. presidents Lincoln (1,318 carats), Washington (1,056 carats), Eisenhower (1,444 carats), and Jefferson (1,381 carats). A fifth bust of Martin Luther King Jr., has also been carved from an Australian sapphire that originally weighed 4,180 carats and has a finished weight of 3,284 carats. And a sixth bust, Madonna of the Star, was carved from an Australian sapphire weighing 1,100 carats in the rough (525 carats cut). The Kazanjian Foundation of California owns the carvings.
Lone Star Sapphire -- This 9,719-carat star sapphire of unknown origin was cut by Dallas cutter John Robinson in 1989.
Unnamed Padparadscha (orange) Sapphire -- This 100-carat oval stone from Ceylon (Sri Lanka) resides in the American Museum of Natural History and is considered the world's largest fine Padparadscha.

jewelry news

2008-11-30T17:18:00.000-08:00

Beat the Christmas Crowd: Shop for Jewelry Gifts Now

If you're like most people, you're still scrambling to finish your holiday shopping the week before Christmas. With each passing "shopping" day, things become more frenzied, as you try to navigate through malls filled with other harried last-minute consumers. And every year, you vow that you're going to start your holiday shopping earlier next time to avoid the mad rush.

Some people actually enjoy the crowds and the hustle -- for them, it wouldn't be Christmas without it. But for those of us who don't want to face another holiday crush, now is the time to start shopping for jewelry.

Okay, it's admittedly tough to "get into the holiday spirit" while the retail world is still winding down its "back to school" campaigns. But look on the bright side: there are a lot of positives to starting your Christmas jewelry shopping in September:

Less crowds, less stress -- You're in that twilight shopping period of post-summer, pre-Thanksgiving, so the crowds and lines will be a whole lot shorter at the stores. You may even find a parking spot near the front!
More time to "shop around" -- Why settle for the first piece of jewelry that catches your eye? Take the time to research the piece you really want (the Internet is great for this), and browse through a number of different jewelry and department stores in your area at your leisure to see who's offering the best value for the money.
Availability issues -- With so many shoppers in the stores at once, it makes sense that the shelves get progressively barer the closer it gets to Christmas. Shopping months ahead of time ensures you'll have a big selection to choose from. Meanwhile, if there's a specific item you want that needs to be ordered or custom made, you won't have to worry about getting it completed and shipped in time.
Style/sizing issues -- Whether you're buying your jewelry gift from a store retailer, catalog, TV shopping channel or the Internet, there's always a chance that once you get the piece home, you may wish you bought either the larger or smaller size, have second thoughts about the style, or be disappointed in the quality. Buying that piece in September ensures that you have enough time to return and replace it before Christmas.
The "personal touch" -- By purchasing your gifts early, you'll have the time to wrap and ship them yourself. This is sure to save you a bundle this holiday season.